Page 49 - Tạp chí bonsai cây cảnh BCI 2015Q3

materials too. A time-lapse film showing Bjorn wiring
a large pine collapses many hours into five minutes.
The effect is mesmerizing.
A self-scoring quiz at the end of the Techniques
lectures reinforces the lessons before the main lec-
ture, Creating Your Own Bonsai Tree, the longest and
most comprehensive component. This lesson can be
watched over and over again as you work on your own
trees.
The Bonsai Beginner’s Course has been well re-
ceived, exceeding Oscar’s and Bjorn’s expectations.
Students have scored the course 4.9 out of 5 stars.
Many are clamoring for intermediate and advanced
subjects.
Both instructors attempt to answer all the question
posted by students regarding the course.
How are they reacting to this success? Bjorn and
Oscar were interviewed by phone and e-mail where
they talked about this exciting new learning tool they
have brought to the world of bonsai.
BCI: You both started you bonsai journey in your
early teens but on different paths. How did you
become aware of each other’s work and how did you
meet?

(Continued next page)

Ramification: excerpts from Pruning and Shaping
lecture, The Bonsai Beginner’s Course:

First image; Elongating coniferous species such as
junipers are pruned using scissors, cutting branch tips
back to semi-hardwood as they elongate during the
growing season. Avoid pinching junipers as this can
damage the tender foliage. Other elongating species
such as spruces, hinoki cypress and cryptomeria are
pruned using both scissors and pinching.
Second image; Whorled conifers, two- and three-
needles pines such as black pine and red pine, can
be candle pruned and needle plucked in the early
summer months to induce a second flush of annual
growth. This expedites the ramification process, creates
energy balance and reduces needle length. In early
summer, first cut the weakest candles off at the base
and pluck needles back to ten or twelve pairs around
each removed candle. Ten to fourteen days later, cut
the strong candles in the same manner and pluck
needles back to six or eight pairs around each removed
candle. Within a few weeks multiple buds will appear
where the original candles were cut. Cutting the weak
candles first gives them a head start and by leaving
more needles in weaker areas and less needles in
strong areas, growth can be properly balanced.
Third image; In the autumn after the new growth has
fully elongated and hardened off, remove all but two
buds in each area, choosing those most similar in
strength and laterally oriented.
Fourth image; Five needle pines such as Japanese white
pine, cannot be de-candled as these will not produce
a second flush within the same year. Instead, cut the
strongest candle in half during the growing season,
leaving some needles on each candle to ensure the
survival of the branch. (Continued)

July/August/September 2015 | BCI | 47