Page 49 - Tạp chí bonsai cây cảnh BCI 2016Q4

1! The marks on the cotton tips show the depth 1!
variations for the bottom of this stone.
When all the cotton tips are depth marked, place the
Perspex over the top of the timber for the daiza and
line it up accurately with the stone outline previously
marked. I use double-sided carpet tape to stick the
Perspex firmly to the wood.
1@ Now, using a drill press with the same thin drill 1@
bit as previously, and starting with cotton tip No. 1
transfer the depth of the marker to the drill bit with
a piece of thin masking tape, and then drill through
hole No. 1 into the wood until the masking tape grazes
the Perspex surface. Then proceed to cotton tip No. 2
and do the same thing. You can keep reusing the piece
of masking tape for as long as it holds up to the task.
With this process you are accurately drilling down
to the base line of the stone, according to each original
depth marking you plotted.
1# When all the depth markers are drilled you then
don’t have to think too much about the internal shape
of the daiza. You just carve away everything down to
the depth of each drilled hole. I use the heaviest carv-
ing tool that the wood will reasonably take until I get
down near the base of the holes then switch to a finer 1#
tool. I leave at least the full thickness of the ink outline
of the stone at this stage, refining gradually for the
final fitting.
1$ Having finished all this, you can now proceed to
shape the outer parts of the daiza—feet and sides—to
your desired design.

1$

Detail above; Leave at least the
full thickness of the ink outline of
the stone at this stage, refining
gradually for the final fitting.
Bottom right; This stone is from the
Mary River in Queensland and the
finished daiza is Tasmanian Myrtle.

October/November/December 2016 | BCI | 47