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energy of the tree and this will affect the growth rate of the tree during the
forthcoming growing season. Any damage to the roots (either accidental tears,
wounds or pruning cuts) will not be repaired until the roots are more active,
leaving the possibility of dieback, loss of the root or even the possibility of
infection to the site.
Trees can, and are, collected and root pruned at this time with no obvious ill-
effect but there are risks to the health of the tree (that increases according to the
amount of the root system that is removed).
Stage Two: Swelling Buds
During this time the roots are coming out of dormancy but do not have to
support any foliage and so can still be disturbed.
Repotting and rootpruning can be carried out safely. The closer the tree gets
to Stage Three the better as repotting early will deprive the tree of some energy.
However, those enthusiasts with large collections and with many tree trees to
repot in a short period of time, will typically start early and repot trees that have
many Swelling Buds.
Stage Three: Extending Buds
The very best time to repot and rootprune is as soon as extending buds are
visible, typically in the upper branches of the bonsai. The roots are active and
will repair any damage or pruning wounds quickly, the majority of the tree
resources are above ground and the roots are not yet required to support any
foliage.
Be warned; the extending buds stage can last a relatively short period of
time!
Stage Four: Opening Buds
The majority of tree species must be repotted and rootpruned by this time or
they should be left until the following year. As the first opening buds appear, the
roots are required to supply moisture to the new foliage and should not be
disturbed!